Vegetarian Aubergine Burgers with Poached Eggs & a Paprika-Garlic Dressing

Here is my new recipe for vegetarian burger patties made from aubergines. These are juicy, satisfying and flavoursome, and they contain neither soy protein nor any of the similar sawdusty meat substitutes so often added to vegetarian dishes. These do, I admit, take some time and effort to make, but I promise you won't be disappointed by the result. Start this the day before, and your vegetarian friends will be putty in your hands as they chow down.  

Serve these hot in stacks, topped with a soft-poached egg, or slap them between burger rolls
with all the usual toppings - cheese, lettuce, pickles and tomato sauce. 

Why aubergines? Two reasons. One of my sisters is a life-long vegetarian, and many years ago I asked her, just before a Christmas feast, what she would consider an excellent dish for a special occasion. 'Anything with brinjals and cheese,' she replied without skipping a beat ('brinjals' is what we call this vegetable in South Africa).  I hadn't hugely appreciated aubergines before I heard this, but my interest was piqued, and I've been a devotee ever since.

Also, when it comes to a burger, aubergines are a great choice because they have a unique texture and a deep savour that isn't found in any other vegetable I can think of  apart from fresh and dried mushrooms. I'd describe this quality - sorry, vegetarians - as 'meaty', and I've tried to enhance it in this recipe by adding an umami-rich punch in the form of grated Parmesan.

The challenge with making a good veggie burger is, first, to make it look as tempting and toothsome as as a chargrilled meaty one, and not like the sad khaki-coloured flaps of mush that pass for vegetarian burgers.  I've tried to accomplish this by making big, thick, well-coloured burger patties that look every bit as tempting, and I've used top-quality paprika to hint at a fiery, chargrilled taste.

The second challenge is to achieve some of the bounce and spring that make a juicy beef burger so good.  After some experimentation, I realised that this just isn't possible, because no cooked veggie has the resilience of ground beef. You could, if you like, add some cubed halloumi to these patties to give them a bit more rubberiness, but I think that's a bit of a waste of good cheese.  If you're looking for an extra kick of cheese, top each burger with a nice slice of smoked provolone.

The reason this picture looks so misty is because I forgot to clean my cell phone's
camera lens. I think Iwill call this effect my 'vinaigrette' filter.

In this recipe I've used some of my favourite spices to bring out the flavour (aubergine, being meek-flavoured, gracefully accepts help from many quarters), but these are a rough guide. You can add anything you fancy: chopped fresh green or red chillies, grated raw onion, finely chopped preserved lemon, fresh herbs, extra garlic, and so on.

My plan, when photographing these, was to slap them between toasted rolls and add all the usual burger toppings, but of course the packet of fresh rolls I'd bought that morning had been demolished by my hungry teens. So I served them for dinner with fresh rocket, poached eggs and a perky paprika, garlic and lemon dressing.

I've tested this recipe using both unpeeled and peeled aubergines, and the peeled ones produced the best patties. If you look out for flat, sleek, bouncy aubergines at the peak of their ripeness, you won't find them difficult to peel, although I admit that cutting them into a fine dice will take up some of your time.

Vegetarian Aubergine Burgers with Poached Eggs & a Paprika-Garlic Dressing

For the burgers:

4 large, ripe aubergines
2 Tbsp (30 ml) salt, for degorging
3 Tbsp (45 ml) olive oil
4 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and very finely chopped or grated
1 cup (250 ml) fine dried breadcrumbs, plus extra for coating
1 extra-large free-range egg, lightly beaten
¾ cup (180 ml) finely grated Parmesan
the finely grated zest of a small lemon
4 Tbsp (60 ml) finely chopped fresh chives or spring onions
2 tsp (10 ml) cumin
1 tsp (5 ml) coriander
1 tsp (5 ml) smoked paprika [or good-quality Spanish sweet paprika]
150 g (about two 'wheels' or discs) feta cheese [use Greek feta, not the Danish variety]
salt and milled black pepper
sunflower oil, for frying
freshly poached eggs, for topping
rocket leaves, for serving

For the dressing: 
3 Tbsp (45 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 small clove garlic, peeled and very finely grated or crushed
a pinch of salt
1 tsp (5 ml) smoked paprika
a pinch of caster sugar
½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
milled black pepper

Start this dish a few hours in advance. Top and tail the aubergines and thinly pare their skins using a potato peeler.  Halve them horizontally, and then cut them into a fine, neat 5 mm dice by cutting them first into slim batons, and then cubing them (see below).

Tip the diced bits into a large colander, sprinkle the salt over them, and place a weight on top.  A plate weighed down with two or three tins from the cupboard always works for me.  Set them aside for an hour.  Now rinse off the salt under a running cold tap. Shake well, and tip the pieces onto a clean tea towel or a stack of kitchen paper.  Pat them firmly to remove any excess liquid.

Heat the oil in a large, shallow pan - a paella pan is ideal.  Add the aubergine bits and fry them over a lively heat for 8 minutes, or until they are lightly browned, stirring often to prevent them sticking. Now turn down the heat slightly and cook for another 8-10 minutes, or until the pieces are soft and silken, but not collapsed into a mush, and with not a trace of wateriness. Stir in the garlic and cook for another minute or two.

Scrape the contents of the frying pan into a large mixing bowl and set aside to cool for 10 minutes, or until lukewarm. Stir in the breadcrumbs, egg, Parmesan, lemon zest, chives, cumin, coriander and paprika. Roughly crumble in the feta cheese, season to taste with salt and black pepper, and gently mix everything together until well combined.  The easiest way to do this is to use your hands.

Put the mixture into the fridge to firm up for an hour or two; this will also let the breadcrumbs absorb some moisture.

To make the dressing, mix together the lemon juice, garlic, salt, paprika and caster sugar in a small bowl.  When the sugar has dissolved, gradually whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with black pepper and more salt, if necessary.

Form the aubergine mixture into thick, neat patties at least 3 cm thick.  The best way to do this is to press the mixture firmly into a food ring of a suitable size. If you don't have such a gadget, make one by cutting the top and bottom off a tin of tuna. Gently push the formed patty out of the ring and pat it gently between the palms of your hand to even the surfaces. Set aside and repeat the process with the remaining aubergine mixture.

Put some dried breadcrumbs on a plate and lightly season them with salt and pepper.  Put a patty into the crumbs and roll it over, patting lightly, so it is evenly coated on all sides. Shake off any excess crumbs.

Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan or on a skillet.  Fry the patties, a few at a time, over a medium-high heat, until they are a lovely rich brown all over, and very hot all the way through.  Watch them like a hawk, as the crumbs burn quickly.  If your mixture came out of the fridge and was very cold, put them in the oven after browning so they are heated right through.

To serve these as burgers, sandwich them between toasted rolls and add lettuce, tomato, gherkins, cheese and all the usual burger toppings (how about this tomato relish?)

To serve them with the paprika dressing, arrange some fresh rocket leaves on each plate. Keep the patties warm in the oven while you poach the eggs.  Place two burger patties in a stack on top of the leaves. Perch a poached egg on top, and drizzle the dressing over the egg. Serve immediately.

Makes 8-10 burger patties, depending on size. 

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Low-Carb Pea and Pea Shoot Salad with Bacon & Eggs

Pea shoots, with their delicate tendrils and beautiful leaves, are often used by chefs to dolly up plates of food (often to no avail, I'm afraid) but they have a wonderful fresh-pea taste and deserve to be eaten on their own as a salad leaf.

Low-Carb Pea and Pea Shoot Salad with Bacon & Eggs. Plate by David Walters

They're now available in South Africa, in season, at better supermarkets,  and you can also occasionally find them at farmers' markets.

This double-pea salad uses frozen peas thawed in boiling water; use fresh peas by all means, but they never taste as sweet and delicious as top-quality frozen ones.

Some very crisp thick-cut bacon cubes, a wobbly poached egg and a plain dressing of lemon juice and olive oil all add up to a most satisfying dish.  If you can't find thick-cut bacon, use smoked pork rashers. This is also good with frizzled Parma ham.

Please don't be put off the idea of poaching eggs: it's really very easy. The most important thing, in my opinion, is that you use very fresh eggs.  Elderly eggs have thin whites that don't hold their shape. To test whether your egg is fresh enough to poach well, break one onto a plate. The white should be viscous, and the yolk must perch proudly on top, at a slight height. If the yolk is flat and the white spreads out on the plate, buy fresher eggs.

Keep the water at a gentle simmer (that means a slow burble, with some busy little bubbles) and make a gentle whirlpool in the water with a spoon before you slip in the egg. Break it into a teacup first so you can pour it easily into the centre of the vortex. If you're not confident this will work, poach your eggs in clingfilm purses.  If you can't find pea shoots, use any dark green leaf.

This needs to be made at the very last minute, as pea shoots bruise quickly and wilt fast under a dressing.

Pea and Pea Shoot Salad with Bacon & Eggs

2 cups (500 ml) frozen peas
boiling water
2 tsp (10 ml) white vinegar
1 Tbsp sunflower oil
6 thick-cut bacon rashers, cubed
4 fresh extra-large free range eggs
2 punnets fresh pea shoots (or enough for 4 people)

For the dressing:
3 Tbsp (45 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 tsp (5 ml) Dijon mustard
a pinch of white sugar
flaky sea salt and milled black pepper
80 ml extra-virgin olive oil

First make the dressing. Put the lemon juice, mustard, sugar and a pinch of salt into a small bowl. Stir until the salt and sugar have dissolved, then whisk in the olive oil to form a smooth emulsion. Season with more salt if necessary, and some milled black pepper. Reserve.

Cover the peas with boiling water from the kettle, let them stand for a minute or two, or until thawed, then drain and reserve.

Now get the pot ready for poaching the eggs. Half-fill a deep saucepan with boiling water and set it on the stove at a slow simmer. Add the vinegar.

Heat the oil in a pan and fry the bacon cubes until crisp. While the bacon is frying, poach the eggs. It's easiest to do this one at a time. Break each egg into a teacup, make a whirlpool (see above) and slip it gently into the middle of the pan. Poach for 3 minutes, depending on the size of your egg, or until the white is cooked and the yolk is still quite runny. Don't poke the eggs or stir the water, and don't worry if the water looks cloudy. If your egg is fresh, it will form a good shape. Remove with a slotted spoon, place on a warm plate and cover while you poach the remaining eggs.

Drain the bacon on kitchen paper. Arrange the pea shoots on four plates, sprinkle over the peas and bacon, and top each one with a warm poached egg. Pass the dressing round in a separate jug.

If you like, you can add the lemon juice to the hot fat left in the bacon pan, let it bubble for 30 seconds, then continue making the dressing.

Serves 4.

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Cream of Watercress Soup with Wobbly Eggs

Liquid-centred 'poached' eggs add a touch of drama to this clean-flavoured watercress soup. This isn't a complicated recipe, but it does require some attention to detail.  The trick is to get the eggs just right, because most of the fun in eating it comes from puncturing the egg with your spoon and swirling the golden yolk around the bowl.

Cream of Watercress Soup with Wobbly Eggs

I am a great fan of watercress, and think it's a most under-appreciated ingredient.

Rocket is partially to blame for this, because this ubiquitous leaf, with its delicious, peppery twanginess, has a habit of hogging all the limelight, especially in salads.

Watercress -  now abundant on local supermarket shelves - is often considered a second choice to rocket, and I can't understand why. Watercress has a fresh bite and a lovely clean metallic taste, and is as good raw as it is lightly cooked.

This is a good light soup to serve, sequinned with olive oil and generously doused in cream, to friends on a cool spring evening (and there seem too many of those in Cape Town these days). However, since neither the most experienced cook nor the most foolhardy one should consider dangling over a hot stove poaching eggs the old-fashioned way when there are guests to greet and wine to quaff, I recommend that you use a clever restaurant trick:  partially cook the eggs in clingfilm ‘purses’ well ahead of time and then quickly reheat them minutes before serving.

Cream of Watercress Soup with Wobbly Eggs

2 packets of watercress, about 80 g each
1¾ litres (7 cups) chicken or vegetable stock
3 medium potatoes, peeled and finely sliced
6 Tbsp (90 g / 90 ml) butter
6 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, sliced
5 Tbsp (75 ml) cake flour
the juice of half a lemon
200 ml cream
salt and milled black pepper
8 large, very fresh free-range eggs
a little olive oil
a few extra watercress or parsley leaves

Rinse the watercress, pick off the leaves and set them and the stalks to one side.

Heat the chicken stock in a large pot, add the watercress stalks and potato slices and cook at a brisk simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until the potato is very tender.

Melt the butter in a separate large pot, add the leeks, cover the vegetables with a circle of baking paper (or the wrapper from a block of butter) and cook over a low heat for 7-9 minutes, or until very soft. Remove the paper, stir in the flour and cook for another minute. Turn up the heat slightly, add the reserved watercress leaves and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes, or until the leaves have wilted but are still a fresh green colour. Now add the hot stock and potatoes, stir well, bring to a gentle boil and simmer for 3 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon juice, then blend to a smooth purée (but not too fine; the soup should be flecked with green). Reheat the soup, mix in the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Make the eggs in advance. Line a teacup with a large square of clingfilm and generously brush the inner surface with sunflower oil. Break an egg into the cup, bring up the edges of the plastic, twist them together to make a ‘purse’ and then tie into a knot, as if you are knotting a balloon. Make sure there is not too much air between the egg and the knot. Repeat with the remaining 7 eggs. Fill a big bowl with iced water and 10 ice cubes.

Bring a pan of water to a very gentle rolling boil, add 4 of the egg purses and poach for exactly 3  minutes. Plunge the purses into the iced water and chill for 5 minutes. Cut through the knots with scissors, gently peel away the plastic and place the eggs on a plate. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Cover the plate with clingfilm.

When you’re ready to serve the soup, slip the eggs back into a pan of gently boiling water and reheat for exactly 1 minute (set your oven timer to remind you!). Fish the eggs from the water with a slotted spoon and drain quickly on kitchen paper. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and top each one with a puddle of cream, a poached egg, dots of of olive oil and a few leaves of watercress or flat-leaf parsley.

Serves 8.

Cook’s Notes

• This soup can be made up to 4 hours in advance, but no longer, or it may lose its colour.

• Poach the eggs up to 4 hours ahead, and keep them in the fridge. It’s a good idea to poach a few extra eggs, just in case the yolks break or the whites refuse to come away from the plastic. Practise poaching an egg the day before if you’re not feeling confident.

• Try this soup with other tender fresh leaves, such as sorrel, rocket or baby spinach.

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